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Step 1 - Cutting in

Beginning at the corner of the room, use a two-inch or 2.5-inch trim brush to "cut in," applying a three-inch strip of coating along the perimeter where the wall and the ceiling meet.

Cut in a section at a time, alternating between cutting in and painting the ceiling. This will help maintain a wet edge on both the section being cut in and the rolled ceiling area. It also prevents a visible line between the cut-in area and the rest of the ceiling.

Step 2 - Rolling the Ceiling

Before you begin painting your ceiling, cover a roller with paint and slowly roll it back and forth over the ridges in the tray to remove excess paint.

Start painting near the corner of the room, blending the coating into the ceiling line painted previously. Paint across the width of the ceiling, rather than the length.

Continue painting until your ceiling is covered completely. A recommended tool is an extension pole, preferably adjustable, which allows you to reach your ceiling while keeping your feet on the floor.

When you paint, make sure to roll in a motion across your body - rather than along your body - to avoid straining your neck and back.

Step 3 - Cutting in (again)

Once your ceiling is dry, return to the spot where you began painting. Use a trim brush to carefully cut in along the wall-ceiling line.

If you are not comfortable cutting in freehand, allow your ceiling to dry and mask off the edge with low-tack painter's tape. Wait at least 24 hours before applying tape to fresh latex paint, to prevent paint from coming off when you remove the tape.

Step 4 - Baseboard

Paint along the baseboard and around the door and window trim, one wall at a time. When you paint with a partner, one should cut in while the other follows, applying paint with a roller.

Avoid "hat banding" by painting only one wall at a time. Hat banding appears as a stripe around the border of the painted area, and occurs when the paint you cut in dries before the paint you roll on.

Step 5 - Painting the Sash

Begin by lowering the upper part of the window sash and raising the bottom sash out of the way. Use a two-inch sash brush to paint the window sash, then the rails. Be careful to avoid painting the sash tracks.

Next, return the upper sash to nearly a closed position and lower the bottom section, again coating the window sash and rails. Complete the window by painting the rails, frame, and sill.

Leave the sash open until the paint has fully dried. Remove any paint from your window panes with a razor blade, taking care not to scratch the glass.

The recommended tool for work of this kind is a two-inch or a 2.5-inch angular sash brush, which is suitable for flat trim work as well.

Moores Home Center
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Contact Us View Mobile Site We Offer: Paint Paint Supplies Flooring And much much more Email this page Community Info Bookmark this page Owners login Last Updated: Jan 2, 2026	Email This Page Your name: Your email: Your friends name: Your friends email: Comments:	Moores Home Center for contact info click here Step 1 - Cutting in Beginning at the corner of the room, use a two-inch or 2.5-inch trim brush to "cut in," applying a three-inch strip of coating along the perimeter where the wall and the ceiling meet. Cut in a section at a time, alternating between cutting in and painting the ceiling. This will help maintain a wet edge on both the section being cut in and the rolled ceiling area. It also prevents a visible line between the cut-in area and the rest of the ceiling. Step 2 - Rolling the Ceiling Before you begin painting your ceiling, cover a roller with paint and slowly roll it back and forth over the ridges in the tray to remove excess paint. Start painting near the corner of the room, blending the coating into the ceiling line painted previously. Paint across the width of the ceiling, rather than the length. Continue painting until your ceiling is covered completely. A recommended tool is an extension pole, preferably adjustable, which allows you to reach your ceiling while keeping your feet on the floor. When you paint, make sure to roll in a motion across your body - rather than along your body - to avoid straining your neck and back. Step 3 - Cutting in (again) Once your ceiling is dry, return to the spot where you began painting. Use a trim brush to carefully cut in along the wall-ceiling line. If you are not comfortable cutting in freehand, allow your ceiling to dry and mask off the edge with low-tack painter's tape. Wait at least 24 hours before applying tape to fresh latex paint, to prevent paint from coming off when you remove the tape. Step 4 - Baseboard Paint along the baseboard and around the door and window trim, one wall at a time. When you paint with a partner, one should cut in while the other follows, applying paint with a roller. Avoid "hat banding" by painting only one wall at a time. Hat banding appears as a stripe around the border of the painted area, and occurs when the paint you cut in dries before the paint you roll on. Step 5 - Painting the Sash Begin by lowering the upper part of the window sash and raising the bottom sash out of the way. Use a two-inch sash brush to paint the window sash, then the rails. Be careful to avoid painting the sash tracks. Next, return the upper sash to nearly a closed position and lower the bottom section, again coating the window sash and rails. Complete the window by painting the rails, frame, and sill. Leave the sash open until the paint has fully dried. Remove any paint from your window panes with a razor blade, taking care not to scratch the glass. The recommended tool for work of this kind is a two-inch or a 2.5-inch angular sash brush, which is suitable for flat trim work as well.